Second of 36,500


Felix's first surf of the new Millenium

It's quite a perfect morning for the day after the change over. If this change over should mean anything special it probably would just mean that I am especially thankful for actually waking up and blessed because on that morning I wake up in a nice comfortable warm bed with my girl.

I remember walking down to the cliffs the night before with Harvester and girl, my girlfriend, and my gracious long legged host, listening to the sea in our special way. So this morning the surf was there talking to me and calling in its own special way, waiting to be felt. I got up, ate a banana to improve on my Gibbon Munns style, and met Daniel and Tom Hutley on the beach at Polzy. It was cold and it looked bigger than we thought. Wrapped up in a warm suit (a ladies 12!) because they ran out at TJ's, the best surf shop in Polzeath..............cheers for the free suit Ted! We faced the heavy winter swell, not too messy, slight off-shore breeze in the morning and solid 3ft

Loads of people in the water.......bloody tourists.........probably all from Germany! Quite a hard paddle as usual but being out there is quite head explodingly COLD. Hutleys were ripping. Had a few drops and a few good waves with my girlfriend watching me for the first time from the cliffs.

Not like surfing in board shorts in a perfect warm wave somewhere else, but still there is no place like your home break to start the second of thirty six thousand five hundred surfing days of the new millenium.

 

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